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 # VetusLocks
 
-Some 3D designs to repair or upgrade your Vetus cabinet/drawer locks
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+Some 3D designs to repair or upgrade your Vetus cabinet/drawer locks
+
+These Vetus locks are used in many boats.
+
+Over the years though, I experienced some failures.
+
+The ones in wet areas (the cabinets under the sink) had some corrosion problems, in one case the case broke, in another one the lock lip corroded away, and some knobs had a worn thread.
+I also had a lock with a broken "slider".
+
+Also, the knobs and bezels were getting ugly, they were from plastic but with a metal looking finish that corroded here and there resulting in greenish stains, which is probably also poisonous.
+
+So, I designed a new case (compatible with screw hole layout and positon of the lock lip), a new lock lip, a new slider, and some new more modern looking knobs and bezels.
+You only keep the original spring, the central metal part and plastic tracer, and the backplate. These parts never failed so why design new ones?
+
+So, you can't use this design to create completely new locks, but only to repair the existing ones. I believe that as a customer, you have the right to repair.
+
+As an extra bonus, I also desinged a "blind" so you can use the same style to make knobs that look like the Vetus locks, except that you can't push them in of course.
+In that case you print a knob and a blind and just screw them with a bolt through a drawer which has another (or no) locking mechanism, and use them as a pull knob.
+
+## Notes
+
+I used PETG for all the parts. I tried to print the slider and the lock lip in pure nylon (PA) but that was not a big succes, they were actually weaker than the ones in PETG.
+Don't use carbon or glassfiber filaments as this will create way more (too much) friction. Also don't use PLA, as temperatures in boats can become too high and there is UV everywhere.
+The parts on the build plate are orientated so that they have maximum strength in the direction where it is needed. This is most important for the slider.
+
+Make sure that you dry the PETG properly to achieve the optimal strength and smooth finish. After assembly, put some grease on all the parts.
+
+If you print a new casing, don't forget to remove the inner supports. The original casing is a bit more complicated, it is probably universal for some extra options that I don't have.
+I simplified the casing to do exactly what it needs to do in the standard configuration. I also made the back flat to avoid needing supports there.
+
+The slider is a complicated thing. Be careful when removing the supports that you don't break off the spring arms. 
+In the beginning it needs to wear in a little, so operate the lock a dozen times or so until it starts to work smoothly.
+In my case, I swapped the slider from another lock and placed my newly printed one in a lock that I rarely use, just in case.
+
+The lock lip, make sure to remove all traces of the brims. 
+I found the plastic lips surprisingly strong, I tried to break it with the maximum force I thing anyone would normally apply, but didn't succeed.
+
+
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